Autumn Walks Triangle Scarf

Hey there friends!

I’m so excited!  Fall weather is finally here!  Last week we went from shorts and tank tops one day to sweaters and jeans the next.  But it’s okay by me!  Bring on all the fall awesomeness!

I’m so excited to share something I’ve been working on, just in time for fall!  The Autumn Walks Triangle Scarf is here!!  I had an idea for a scarf to pair well with the autumn weather.  Cozy and vibrant, like the colors of autumn, this scarf is perfect for bonfires, walks through the falling leaves, crisp temperatures, with a hot bevy to wrap your fingers around.

IMG_E9067W

I also wanted to make it something simple and quick to make.  So I opted to make it a one-cake scarf, using Lion Brand Mandala yarn.  There are so many different color-ways offered in the Mandala line, you’ll have no problem finding one you like.  Actually, you might have a problem limiting it to one…[hides bag of Mandala yarn cakes behind the door].  With only one cake to make it, this scarf will still give you the beautiful effect of gradient color striping without all the extra ends to weave in.  Win-win!

If you’re new to crochet, have gotten the basics down and want to try a couple of new stitches, then grab your yarn and hook and lets get making!  This pattern has a couple of special stitches: the puff stitch, and a picot border worked over a row of double crochet.  For your learning pleasure, I have included photo tutorials for both below, as well as links to video tutorials by Tamara at Moogly Blog, who basically taught me how to crochet.  She’s clear, concise and a wonderful teacher!

***An inexpensive, ad-free version of this pattern is available as a PDF download at either Etsy or Ravelry.***

Difficulty Level: Confident Beginner – you’ve mastered the basics and want to try a couple new stitches

Materials List

  • 1 cake Mandala yarn (Centaur colorway used), or approximately 590 yds Size 3 DK 100% acrylic yarn
  • Crochet hook in size H / 5 mm (I’m using the Clover Amour set, best brand I’ve used, EVER)
  • Tapestry needle (I use my Clover Chibi set)
  • Scissors (these are my go-to super sharp scissors, plus they’re dainty and have a wonderful vintage feel)

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • Magic Circle
  • Chain (ch)
  • Space (sp)
  • Slip Stitch
  • Skip (sk)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Puff Stitch (ps)
  • Picot

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch:

  1. Wrap the yarn over (yo) your hook, insert the hook into the indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop. Make sure your loop is the same height as the stitch.
  2. Repeat Step 1 two more times in the same stitch. You should now have 7 loops on your hook.
  3. YO and pull through all 7 loops then finish with a chain to close the stitch.

See following step by step photos.

If you would like to see this stitch in action, Moogly Blog has a great video here.  She uses a 9-loop variation, but she has a really neat trick for closing them, so as not to create any confusion in the following row.

Picot:

This pattern will work picot edging over a row of double crochet stitches at the same time.

  1. Work a double crochet as normal (yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops, yo pull through remaining two loops).
  2. To create the picot, you will chain three
  3. Insert your hook down into the top of the double crochet stitch you just made, then out the side, between the front bar and back bar
  4. Slip stitch to close (yo, pull through all three loops on hook).

See following step by step photos.

Again, Moogly has a wonderful video tutorial here.  She uses single crochet as a base, but the method is the same.  She shows two variations on picot stitches, of which we use the first for this pattern.

Finished Measurements

My finished scarf was 52” wide x 27” long (unblocked, not including tassels).  I had just enough yarn left to do the tassels and still have a wee bit left, but very little, less than 5 yards.  I tend to crochet loose though, so you may consider a different hook size if you don’t achieve the same gauge (below).  Or maybe if your gauge is tighter than mine, you might have enough yarn to make an additional pattern repeat.  It’s up to you!

Also, I mentioned that I didn’t block mine.  I don’t feel it is necessary, and if I’m being perfectly honest, I’m usually too lazy to block something unless I really REALLY need to.  Thankfully, for this pattern, you don’t!

Gauge

3” square = 6 rows x 10 dc stitches – I tend to crochet loosely, so you may want to swatch to make sure you achieve gauge. Gauge is most important so that you can complete the scarf within the yardage provided in a single cake of Mandala.

Notes

  • Blocking is optional. Scarf will stretch with wear.
  • Chain-3s at beginning of solid double crochet rows count as a double crochet.
  • Chain-4s at beginning of double crochet mesh rows count as a double crochet + ch-1.
  • Chain-2s at beginning of puff stitch mesh rows are NOT counted as a stitch.
  • The closing chain as described in the puff stitch instructions above does NOT count as the chain-1 in the puff stitch mesh rows.
  • The number of stitches you should have in each row are indicated at the end of the line in parentheses ( ).
  • If you are off on your stitch count, most likely you have missed an increase stitch in either the first or last stitch of your row.
  • The scarf is worked by repeating certain blocks of rows (specifically Rows 8 – 17). The repeat will look like this:
    • 5 solid rows
    • 1 dc mesh row
    • 1 solid row
    • 1 ps mesh row
    • 1 solid row
    • 1 dc mesh row

Autum Walks Tri Scarf

Begin with a magic circle.  Alternative: chain three, slip stitch into first chain, forming a loop.  Work R1 stitches into that loop.

R1 (solid): ch-3, 2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, turn (6)

R2 (solid): ch-3, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch across until you reach the ch-2 sp of previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc in each stitch across until you reach the last stitch (the ch-3 of the previous row), 2 dc into last stitch, turn. (12)

R3 (dc mesh): ch-4, dc in same stitch, ch-1, sk 1, *dc in next, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 space of previous row, (dc, ch-2, dc) into ch-2 space, ch-1, sk stitch, *dc next, ch1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (dc, ch-1, dc) into last stitch, turn. (10 dc, 8 ch-1)

Row 3

R4 (solid): ch-3, dc in same, dc in each ch-1 sp and dc across until ch-2 space from previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each stitch and ch-1 sp across until last stitch, 2 dc in last stitch, turn. (24)

Row 4

R5 (ps mesh): ch-2, (ps, ch-1, ps) into same, ch-1, sk 1, *ps, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 sp of previous row, (ps, ch-2, ps) into ch-2 sp, ch-1, sk 1, *ps, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (ps, ch-1, ps) in last stitch, turn.  NOTES: The chain-2 at the beginning of this row does NOT count as a stitch.  Also, there will be a total of 2 chains between puffs, but since the first chain is actually part of the puff stitch construction, it is not counted in our stitch count.  See photos below. (16 ps, 14 ch-1)

R6 (solid): ch-3, dc in same, dc in each ch-1 sp and ps across until ch-2 space from previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each stitch and ch-1 sp across until last stitch, 2 dc in last stitch, turn. (36)

R7 (dc mesh): ch-4, dc in same stitch, ch-1, sk 1, *dc in next, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 space of previous row, (dc, ch-2, dc) into ch-2 space, ch-1, sk stitch, *dc next, ch1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (dc, ch-1, dc) into last stitch, turn.  (22 dc, 20 ch-1)

R8 (solid): ch-3, dc in same, dc in each ch-1 sp and dc across until ch-2 space from previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each stitch and ch-1 sp across until last stitch, 2 dc in last stitch, turn. (48)

R9-12 (solid): ch-3, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch across until you reach the ch-2 sp of previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc in each st across until you reach the last stitch (the ch-3 of the previous row), 2 dc into last stitch, turn. (R9, 54; R10, 60; R11, 66, R12, 72)

R13 (dc mesh): ch-4, dc in same stitch, ch-1, sk 1, *dc in next, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 space of previous row, (dc, ch-2, dc) into ch-2 space, ch-1, sk stitch, *dc next, ch1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (dc, ch-1, dc) into last stitch, turn.  (40 dc, 38 ch-1)

R14 (solid): ch-3, dc in same, dc in each ch-1 sp and dc across until ch-2 space from previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each stitch and ch-1 sp across until last stitch, 2 dc in last stitch, turn. (84)

R15 (ps mesh): ch-2, (ps, ch-1, ps) into same, ch-1, sk 1, *ps, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 sp of previous row, (ps, ch-2, ps) into ch-2 sp, ch-1, sk 1, *ps, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (ps, ch-1, ps) in last stitch, turn. (46 ps, 44 ch-1)

R16 (solid): ch-3, dc in same, dc in each ch-1 sp and ps across until ch-2 space from previous row, (2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each stitch and ch-1 sp across until last stitch, 2 dc in last stitch, turn. (96)

R17 (dc mesh): ch-4, dc in same stitch, ch-1, sk 1, *dc in next, ch-1, sk 1, repeat from * until the ch-2 space of previous row, (dc, ch-2, dc) into ch-2 space, ch-1, sk stitch, *dc next, ch1, sk 1, repeat from * until last stitch, (dc, ch-1, dc) into last stitch, turn. (52 dc, 50 ch-1)

R18-37: repeat R8-17 twice.  See Notes section above regarding pattern repeat.

(R18, 108) (R19, 114) (R20, 120) (R21, 126) (R22, 132) (R23, 70 dc, 68 ch-1) (R24, 144) (R25, 76 ps, 74 ch-1) (R26, 156) (R27, 82 dc, 80 ch-1)

(R28, 168) (R29, 174) (R30, 180) (R31, 186) (R32, 192) (R33, 100 dc, 98 ch-1) (R34, 204) (R35, 106 ps, 104 ch-1) (R36, 216) (R37, 112 dc, 110 ch-1)

R38 (border): ch-6 (counts as double crochet + ch-3), slip stitch into 4th ch from hook (makes first dc with picot), dc into same stitch,  *dc with picot into ch-1 sp, dc in next stitch, repeat from * across until ch-2 sp from previous row, (ch-1, dc with picot, ch-1) into ch-2 sp, *dc into next stitch, dc with picot into ch-1 sp, repeat from * across until last stitch, (dc, dc with picot) into last stitch. (225 dc, 113 picot, 2 ch-1)

Tie off, weave in ends.

Tassels (Optional)

You will make 3 tassels to be secured at each of the corners of your scarf.  To make the them, you’ll need scissors, a tapestry needle, remaining yarn, and a piece of cardboard that has been cut to a 4” long (width doesn’t matter).

  1. With your cardboard in hand, line up the end of your yarn with the bottom edge of your cardboard and hold it securely with your finger.
  2. Wrap your yarn around the folded cardboard 20+ times, the more you wrap, the fuller your tassel will be.  Line up your working yarn tail to the bottom edge, as you did in Step 1, and cut.
  3. Cut an 8” piece of yarn, and insert it between the yarn and the cardboard and tie a knot at the very top.  Leave the tails.  This will be the top of your tassel.
  4. Slide the yarn off your cardboard and keep it in an ‘O’ shape with your knot at the top.  Cut the yarn at the bottom of the ‘O’.  Now you’ve got an upside down ‘U’ with a knot at the top.
  5. Cut another 8” piece of yarn, and tie it around your yarn, about 1’ from the top of the tassel, tie a knot, then wrap the tails around the tassel back to the starting point and tie another knot.  Use a tapestry needle to thread the tails from this knot down into the center of the tassel.
  6. Secure your 3 completed tassels to the picots at each of the three corners of your scarf.  Use a tapestry needle to thread the tails back down the center of the tassels or weave them in to the fabric of your scarf.

Congratulations

IMG_E9064WYou did it!  You’re ready to take a walk in the crisp autumn air, enjoy the changing colors of leaves, drink some hot apple cider next to a bonfire, and bask in the gloriousness that is fall.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!  Share your makes with me on Instagram and / or Facebook!  Use the tags #autumnwalksscarf and #labellevieforme.

If you have any questions or problems, I’m here to help! Email me at labelleviebykristen@gmail.com.

Happy walking in your new scarf!

Web Signature


All rights reserved.  This design, pattern, and images are the property of Kristen Caldwell via La Belle Vie by Kristen and HooksBooksAndWanderlust.com. This pattern is for personal use.  Items made using this pattern can be sold with credit given to La Belle Vie by Kristen and Hooks Books and Wanderlust.  In accordance with U.S. copyright laws, you may not alter, sell, or distribute this pattern in whole or in part, in any way without express written permission from Kristen Caldwell.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s