It’s officially Fall, and that means PUMPKINS! I know, I know, you’re thinking, What? Another crochet pumpkin tutorial? But I’m thinking Why not!? So I’m adding my little guy to the mix.
There are tons of great pumpkin tutorials out there, like this one or this one, or maybe this one! But I wanted something with a little texture, but that was still simple enough for a more adventurous beginner.
I got the idea for the texture on this from Daisy Farm Crafts Half Double Crochet Front Two Loop Cluster tutorial. The only difference here is that instead of working multiple stitches into the front two loops, we are only working a single stitch.
You can make your pumpkin as big or small as you would like, with any yarn you would like. For the purposes of this tutorial, I used a category 4 worsted weight yarn from my scrap stash (like Vanna’s Choice, for example). My only tip here is that for a denser fabric, you work with a hook size significantly smaller than your yarn label recommends. Otherwise, the holes in your fabric will allow for stuffing to come out. The goal is close, tight stitches and a dense fabric. For my worsted weight yarn, I used a 4 mm G hook.
- Worsted weight (4) yarn in 2-3 colors for body, stem and curlicue
- Crochet hook in size G / 4mm
- Tapestry needle
Stitches & Terms
- Magic Circle/Ring
- Chain (ch)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Single crochet (sc)
- Back loop only (BLO)
- Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) (Photo Tutorial)
- Half double crochet (hdc)
- Half double crochet in front two loops (hdcF2L) (Photo Tutorial)
- Half double crochet decrease (hdc2tog) (Photo Tutorial)
Finished Measurements (as written)
- Pumpkin body rectangle: approx. 7″ wide x 9″ long
- Pumpkin body: approx. 3.5″ tall x 3.75″ dia, circumference approx. 11.5″ (stretched with stuffing)
- Stem: approx. 1.25″ long x .5″ dia
- Curlicue (un-stretched): approx. 2.5″ long
12 rows x 17 sts of the pattern = 4″ square
Size / Yarn Adjustments
This pattern was written with worsted (4) weight yarn and a size G / 4mm hook, but it is written recipe style so that you can adjust for different size pumpkins and different yarns, tension, or gauge.
- You can use any weight yarn you prefer, but choose a significantly smaller hook than that recommended on the yarn table. You want your fabric to be as dense as possible to avoid any holes in your fabric where stuffing can pop through.
- You can make the pumpkin as big or small as you want, just adjust the size of your rectangle. The height of your pumpkin will be equal to approximately 1/2 the width of your rectangle, and the girth or circumference of your pumpkin will be equal to the length of your rectangle plus 1-2 inches to account for stretching when filled with fiberfill.
- This pattern is written in US Standard Terms
- Ch-1s at the beginning of rows / rounds do NOT count as a stitch
- Your fabric will have an obvious right and wrong side. The right side will have a ribbed look, while the wrong side will have a flat look
- Odd numbered rows will be regular half double crochet (hdc) and even numbered rows will be half double crochet in the front two loops (hdcF2L)
- Every other odd numbered row (3, 7, 11, etc) will begin with a half double crochet increase (or two half double crochets in a single stitch), and end with a half double crochet decrease (or half double crochet the last two stitches together). This combats the pattern’s tendency to work up at an angle and instead keeps your sides nice and straight. It will NOT change the total number of stitches per row.
For the body of the pumpkin, we start out with a basic rectangle. The height of your pumpkin will be roughly equal to 1/2 of the width of your rectangle. The circumference of your pumpkin will be equal to the length of your rectangle plus a couple inches to account for stretching when stuffing with fiberfill.
R1: 30 fhdc (Alternate: ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across), ch 1, turn (30 sts)
NOTE: Remember that here you can do as many or as few stitches as you like, just keep in mind that this is the row that determines your pumpkin height. H= .5 * (length of row). Your stitch count will remain the same throughout. My row length was approximately 7″ and the finished body stood approximately 3.5″ tall, for your reference.
R2: hdcF2L in each st across, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
R3: 2hdc in first st, hdc across row until last two sts, hdc2tog, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
R4: hdcF2L in each st across, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
R5: hdc in each st across, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
Repeat R2-5 until you have reached desired circumference. In this example, I completed 28 rows, which gave me a 9″ long rectangle.
Fold your rectangle in half, with the right/ribbed side on the inside, with your first and last rows meeting, then slip stitch the ends together to form a tube. This puts the seam on the inside of your pumpkin and makes it almost invisible from the right side of it.
Tie off, leaving a very long tail for sewing, cinching, and creating the pumpkin creases. I ended up having to join additional yarn to my tail because I didn’t leave enough, so err on the side of too long.
Flip your tube right side out.
With a tapestry needle, weave your yarn tail in and out around the bottom edge of your tube, pull tight to cinch closed. Do not cut tail.
Stuff your pumpkin with fiberfill, but don’t pack it too full or you risk being almost unable to stick your needle through. Full but fluffy is the goal here.
Feed your tapestry needle back through the center of the cinched bottom of your pumpkin, up through the center of your stuffing, and out the top, then weave your yarn tail in and out around the top edge of your tube and cinch it closed. Pull tightly to create the divot in the top and bottom of your pumpkin.
To create ridges for your pumpkin, continue inserting your needle through the center of the bottom of your pumpkin, up and out the top at evenly spaced intervals, pulling tightly to make deeper creases. Do this 5-6 times, or however many you prefer.
When you have the desired shape and number of creases, your needle and tail should be coming out of the top of your pumpkin. Weave your tail through the stitches at the center of the top of your pumpkin, then back down into the center of the pumpkin and out the bottom. Leave the tail hanging.
Begin with a magic circle / ring.
R1: 6 sc into magic circle / ring, sl st to first sc of round to close, ch 1 (6 sts)
R2: sc in BLO all the way around, sl st to the first sc of the round to close, ch 1 (6 sts)
NOTE: You may need to push the center of your work out a bit so that you start working more visibly in a cylindrical fashion. Be sure that your beginning yarn tail is on the inside of that cylinder.
R3: sc around, sl st to the first sc of the round to close, ch 1 (6 sts)
Continue repeating R3 until you have reached the length of stem you desire. I did about 7 or 8 rounds in my example. Tie off, leave a long tail that is longer than the height of your pumpkin.
Working with single crochets, the number of curls you have will be determined by how many total chains you start with. You will produce a single curl for each 6 chains you complete. For this example, I have 30 total chain stitches, not counting my turning chain, so 30 / 6 = 5 curls.
Ch 31 (30 stitches + 1 turning chain)
R1: 2 sc in second ch from hook and in each across. Tie off, leaving a tail longer than the height of your pumpkin.
Step 1: Thread your yarn tail from your stem onto your tapestry needle. Insert your needle at the top center of your pumpkin, then down through it and out the center of the bottom. Leave the tail hanging.
Step 2: Repeat Step 1 for the curlicue.
Step 3: With all your yarn tails hanging out the bottom center of your pumpkin, pull securely and tie the tails for the stem and curlicue to the tail of the pumpkin and to each other. Cut off any excess tail.
Yay! You did it! Pat yourself on the back, grab yourself a PSL, then make a few more in varying sizes and colors to group together with your fall decor, or gift some to a pumpkin-loving friend!
Use the tag #LaBelleVieForMe to share your pumpkins with me on Instagram and / or Facebook!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Be sure to subscribe to the blog so you know when more free patterns are posted!
Until next time, happy crocheting!
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The opinions and recommendations given in this post are entirely my own. I wouldn’t suggest anything to you that I have not tried and done myself. I earn nothing from my recommendations, I’m simply passing on a little information.